How long does a full deck replacement usually take?

Most residential deck replacements take between three days and two weeks, depending on size, whether stairs and multiple landings are involved, and what we find once the old structure is opened up. Weather delays are common here given how much rain the region gets, so we build some flexibility into the schedule.

What should I ask a contractor before hiring them for a deck replacement?

Ask how they handle ledger board flashing specifically, since that's the detail most likely to be skipped or done poorly and the hardest to inspect once the deck is finished. Also ask whether they pull permits themselves, what hardware and fastener ratings they use, and for references from decks they've built at least a few years ago rather than brand-new ones.

What's the real difference between capped composite and PVC decking?

Capped composite has a wood-fiber core wrapped in a protective plastic cap, giving it a more natural wood-grain look at a moderate price point. PVC decking is fully synthetic with no wood content at all, so it's essentially immune to moisture absorption and rot, generally at a higher cost than capped composite.

Do all composite decking brands carry the same warranty?

No, warranty length and what's covered vary by manufacturer and product line, and warranties are typically only honored if the product was installed per the manufacturer's fastening and spacing specifications. We install to those specs specifically so the warranty stays valid if you ever need it.

Does a deck in Aldergrove or Lynden need different footing depth than other parts of the region?

Footing depth is based on local frost depth and soil conditions, which is set by the applicable local building code rather than being the same number everywhere. Because Aldergrove and Lynden fall under different building authorities on either side of the border, we confirm the specific requirement with the local department for your property rather than assuming one standard applies.

Deck Replacement in Aldergrove, BC & Lynden, WA

Decks in Aldergrove and Lynden Take a Different Kind of Beating

A deck built for a dry climate doesn't hold up here. Homes on both sides of the Aldergrove, BC and Lynden, WA border sit in the same Pacific Northwest weather system: long stretches of driving rain, marine-tinged air moving in off the Sound and the Strait of Georgia, and a moss and algae season that can run eight months or more out of the year. That combination is hard on a deck in ways that don't show up right away.

Wood absorbs moisture through end grain and fastener holes long before it looks bad on the surface. Fasteners corrode from the inside of the joint out. Moss and algae hold water against the boards and turn walking surfaces slick and eventually spongy. By the time a deck looks obviously bad — cupped boards, black staining, soft spots underfoot — the structure underneath has usually been dealing with moisture intrusion for several seasons already. That's the pattern we see over and over on decks in this area, and it's the starting point for how we scope a replacement.

How to Tell It's Replacement Time, Not Another Repair

Not every tired-looking deck needs to come out. But there's a point where patching boards is just delaying a bigger, more expensive problem. Walk your deck and check for the following:

Soft, spongy, or bouncy spots in the decking or at the stair treads
Ledger board area (where the deck meets the house) showing staining, gaps, or soft wood
Persistent moss or black-green staining that comes back within weeks of cleaning
Rust streaking below fasteners or visibly corroded joist hangers
Railings that flex or posts that wiggle at the base
Gaps opening between boards, or boards that stay damp long after rain stops
Footings or posts you can't confirm are still solid below grade

One or two of these can sometimes be repaired in place. Several at once, or anything involving the ledger board, joists, or footings, usually means the structure has been compromised long enough that a full replacement is the honest recommendation — patching over hidden rot just moves the same problem a few years down the road.

What a Correct Deck Replacement Actually Involves

Starting at the House Connection

Most deck failures in wet climates start at the ledger board, where the deck attaches to the house. If that connection isn't flashed correctly — proper metal flashing integrated behind the house's water-resistive barrier, not just caulked over — water works its way behind the siding and into the rim joist. We treat the ledger flashing detail as the single most important part of the job, because it's also the part that's completely hidden once the deck is finished.

Framing and Footings

Joist spacing, beam sizing, and footing depth all need to match the actual load — furniture, hot tubs, and gathering space add up fast, and undersized framing is a common shortcut we run into on older decks. Footings need to be set below frost depth and inspected before they're covered. This is also where we confirm ventilation under the deck is adequate; a low, boxed-in deck with no airflow traps moisture against the framing and shortens its life regardless of what material sits on top.

Fasteners and Hardware

In a climate with this much moisture and marine air, fastener corrosion is a real factor, not a theoretical one. Structural connectors, screws, and joist hangers all need to be rated for ground-contact and coastal-exposure use. Mixing incompatible metals (the wrong screw in the wrong hanger, for instance) sets up galvanic corrosion that can weaken a connection years before it's visible.

Decking, Railing, and Drainage

The visible surface matters too, but it's the last decision, not the first. Board spacing, fastener pattern, and slope away from the house all affect how fast the deck sheds water and how much moss gets a foothold. A deck built flat, with boards packed tight and no positive drainage, will grow moss no matter what material you choose.

Comparing Decking Materials for This Climate

Material	Moisture Behavior Here	Maintenance	Typical Lifespan
Pressure-treated wood	Absorbs water at cut ends and fastener holes; needs sealing to slow it	Annual cleaning, periodic re-staining/sealing	10-15 years, less if sealing is skipped
Cedar	Naturally moisture- and insect-resistant, but still needs finish maintained	Regular cleaning and refinishing to hold appearance	15-20 years with upkeep
Capped composite	Doesn't absorb water into the board core; shrugs off moss staining better	Periodic washing, no sealing or staining	25-30 years, per manufacturer warranty
PVC decking	Fully synthetic, essentially immune to rot; still needs surface cleaning	Lowest ongoing maintenance	25-30+ years, per manufacturer warranty

We install all of these depending on budget and the homeowner's priorities. Our standard is to steer clients away from uncapped composite products from the 1990s-2000s era in this specific climate — early composite decking absorbed moisture at the core and was prone to mold growth in exactly the wet, low-airflow conditions common here. Capped composite and PVC solved that problem by sealing the core, which is why we lead with those options when a client wants a low-maintenance deck. Wood is still a legitimate, honest choice for homeowners who want that look and are willing to keep up with sealing on a schedule.

Our Process, Start to Finish

On-site assessment — we look at the ledger connection, check for soft framing with a probe (not just a visual look), and confirm footing condition where accessible.
Written scope and estimate — what's being replaced, what materials, and why, in plain language, before any demo starts.
Demolition — full removal of decking, railing, and framing that doesn't meet current structural standards, with debris hauled off.
Framing and flashing — new ledger flashing, joists, beams, and footings brought up to current code, inspected before covering.
Decking and railing installation — installed per manufacturer spacing and fastening specs, since that's what keeps warranties valid.
Final walkthrough — we go over the finished deck with you, including basic care instructions specific to the material installed.

Permits and the Border Situation

Lynden, WA falls under Whatcom County jurisdiction; Aldergrove, BC sits across the border in a different province and building authority entirely. Permit requirements, inspection steps, and code details differ between the two, and we don't assume one set of rules applies on both sides. For any deck replacement, the right first step is confirming with the local building department what permit and inspection process applies to your specific property before work starts — we build that confirmation into our estimate process rather than skipping it.

What Drives the Cost

Factor	Why It Matters
Deck size and height off grade	More framing, more footings, more material overall
Ledger/house condition found during demo	Hidden rot at the house connection adds repair scope
Decking material chosen	Pressure-treated, cedar, capped composite, and PVC all price differently per square foot
Railing style and code requirements	Height and baluster spacing requirements affect material and labor
Access for equipment and material	Tight side yards or fenced backyards can add labor time
Stairs and landings	Multiple stair runs or intermediate landings add framing and finish work

We don't quote a deck replacement off a photo or a phone call — the honest number depends on what we find once we're standing on it and can check the framing underneath.

Why It Matters to Hire a Crew That Already Works This Area

A deck built by a crew unfamiliar with this climate tends to make the same mistakes: undersized flashing details, decking installed flat with no drainage slope, fasteners not rated for the moisture and marine air here. Those mistakes don't show up at the final walkthrough — they show up two or three winters later as soft spots, staining, and moss that won't go away no matter how often it's cleaned.

We work Aldergrove, BC and Lynden, WA regularly, which means we already know what this climate does to a deck over time, and we build accordingly — correct ledger flashing, adequate under-deck ventilation, hardware rated for the conditions, and a material recommendation based on how the client actually plans to use and maintain the deck. That's a different starting point than a crew pricing the job off a generic template.

If your deck is showing any of the signs above, or you're just ready to plan a replacement before another wet season takes its toll, we're glad to walk the property with you and put together a straightforward, no-pressure estimate. Use the form below to get started.